Day 64. Qalai Khumb - Khorog

Think of the worst road you can imagine. Bumpy, trip ending potholes, narrow, precipitous drop offs into a raging muddy river. Got the picture? Now think of dodging oncoming B trains and Landcruiser taxis that drive like lunatics. For good measure add in 40+ degrees, 250km and dust in every orifice. Sound like fun?
We feel we’ve achieved something.
Scenery to die for and lots of fun with locals including a swim in the river with probably 50 kids.

This road can destroy men, women and machinery. The Triumph did well despite not being meant for conditions like these. A few times I did wish for longer suspension as we crashed headlong into another unseen crater. I didn’t drop it and Robyn was a star. The pillion gets a raw deal on these roads.

To the top left of the photo is a big truck passing leaving clouds of dust. we were very close to the edge.

Oh dear - a very overloaded vehicle hit a rock.

Traffic jam!! 

For today and the next few days (unless they get sick of us) we have companions. Kurien and Jason. A couple if British lads, they are on their way to Mumbai and are excellent company and very supportive of two old fossils.

The route continues on from yesterday and follows the Panj river through a steep sided gorge. This eventually broadens and the river looks more like a lake.

The mountain scenery is just awesome and the people wave at us all along the route.

Wedding procession 

There are many little Afghan villages along the far bank for us to look at. Also people going about their business along their version of the road we are on.
The women on the far side are all dressed from head to toe in black, a contrast to the colourful clothes of the Tajik women.
Their road has only the occasional vehicle or motorbike but is far more precarious at one stage we spotted a motorcycle probably 300 metres above the river, narrow single lane track cut into a near vertical cliff, certainly no barrier. Wow. We just stared in amazement.

The bridge to Afghanistan, not open now. 

All in all we are pleased that section is over but quietly satisfied.Tomorrow is less challenging but the next day is also a challenge. That’s what we’re here for.