Day 61. Tashkent - Dushanbe
It has been a big day. We got away just after 7, filled up with with 91 octane, hooray. Headed south to Tajikistan border. There are two borders within about 80 km of each other and the southern most one looked the shorter route and maps.me concurred that this was the best route for us.
We passed the first crossing point and about 20km later stopped for a cold drink and to use the bathroom. The usual banter began with a few locals and soon there was a bit of concern coming from them. After a couple of phone calls and a game of charades we figured out the border crossing we were heading to was pedestrian only! So the way we showed our appreciation was applying copious ladles of water to each other from a tub by the entrance. They fell about laughing when I pulled Robyn’s t shirt at the neck and poured a huge ladle of water down her front.
So we backtracked 20km and had a fairly straightforward border crossing. Who knew laminating could be so powerful. I don’t understand why we have 45 day visas but the bike can only stay for 15 days. Still it will be enough.
The next 50km were a nightmare, potholes held together by slivers of tarmac, and it is really hot. We pulled in beside an irrigation canal for a drink and to re-wet our clothes. Saw a little snake about 3ft long in the water, it clocked me and scarpered into some grass, next thing I see this little head poking out to see if I was still there.
After what seemed like forever we made it to decent tarmac and motored on. Serious desert country and very hot. We came to the first section of toll road, frantic waving by the man in charge sent us into a little slip road so we could bypass the gates. There was a toilet block there, so we stopped to re-wet our clothing, unfortunately the water to the basins wasn't working, but outside were a couple of sprinklers watering the grass, I needed no second invitation much to the amusement of the guys in the toll booths. Does anyone notice a recurring theme here?
In the distance we spied a mountain range and slowly but surely we were drawn into a very picturesque valley and we began to climb. There are purple flowers lining the roadside and as we got closer to the mountains is reminded me of the approach to Mt Cook and the purple lupins.
Up and up we climbed and we experienced something we haven’t had for a while, cool air! We gulped it in. Unfortunately it didn’t last long as no sooner had we got to the top, we descended alarmingly quickly with a series of hairpin bends, all on good roads. The scenery was breathtaking, beautiful mountain vistas and every shade of greens, browns and greys in the landscape.
We then entered an incredible steep sided gorge that must have lasted over 100km. The road was variable but the scenery was incredible. We followed a very fast flowing river which bucked and rushed like stampeding horses. I cannot imagine a more perfect place for a talented kayaker to paddle. About a million grades above my pay grade.
There are many tunnels along this route and two of them were very long. The first one about 4 km long had a bit of lighting and wasn’t too bad.
The 2nd one is 7km long and has no lighting and is known as the tunnel of death. Not only no lighting but no ventilation either. This is evident not only by the stench of it but when I tried to put the headlights on full the light diffused into the murk witch rendered them useless. A motorist pulled in behind me and must have seen me hesitate a bit so he overtook me, put his hazard lights on and guided me through, even slowing down for the potholes which I had no chance of seeing. What a star. After emerging from the tunnel my face was black!
The Tajikistan driving standard is about the same as everywhere else in this region. Just be on guard every millisecond.
The road in places was sublime, but I didn't exploit them to their potential as you just never knew when an overtaking car was going to come around the next corner.
An absolutely delightful drive into Dushanbe, the road followed the river and a myriad of guest houses perched on the opposite bank, some were very flash indeed.
We hadn't booked anywhere as we weren't sure we would get this far, but we penciled in a couple. We are in a nice guest house, close to the bike servicing place.
Had a nice meal in a local restaurant and then had a wander through a lovely park, with many families just strolling and people sitting on the park benches just chatting, lovely atmosphere.
Dushanbe is the capital and from what we've seen is clean and modern, looking forward to a bit of an explore once the bike is fixed.
We passed the first crossing point and about 20km later stopped for a cold drink and to use the bathroom. The usual banter began with a few locals and soon there was a bit of concern coming from them. After a couple of phone calls and a game of charades we figured out the border crossing we were heading to was pedestrian only! So the way we showed our appreciation was applying copious ladles of water to each other from a tub by the entrance. They fell about laughing when I pulled Robyn’s t shirt at the neck and poured a huge ladle of water down her front.
So we backtracked 20km and had a fairly straightforward border crossing. Who knew laminating could be so powerful. I don’t understand why we have 45 day visas but the bike can only stay for 15 days. Still it will be enough.
The next 50km were a nightmare, potholes held together by slivers of tarmac, and it is really hot. We pulled in beside an irrigation canal for a drink and to re-wet our clothes. Saw a little snake about 3ft long in the water, it clocked me and scarpered into some grass, next thing I see this little head poking out to see if I was still there.
After what seemed like forever we made it to decent tarmac and motored on. Serious desert country and very hot. We came to the first section of toll road, frantic waving by the man in charge sent us into a little slip road so we could bypass the gates. There was a toilet block there, so we stopped to re-wet our clothing, unfortunately the water to the basins wasn't working, but outside were a couple of sprinklers watering the grass, I needed no second invitation much to the amusement of the guys in the toll booths. Does anyone notice a recurring theme here?
In the distance we spied a mountain range and slowly but surely we were drawn into a very picturesque valley and we began to climb. There are purple flowers lining the roadside and as we got closer to the mountains is reminded me of the approach to Mt Cook and the purple lupins.
Up and up we climbed and we experienced something we haven’t had for a while, cool air! We gulped it in. Unfortunately it didn’t last long as no sooner had we got to the top, we descended alarmingly quickly with a series of hairpin bends, all on good roads. The scenery was breathtaking, beautiful mountain vistas and every shade of greens, browns and greys in the landscape.
We then entered an incredible steep sided gorge that must have lasted over 100km. The road was variable but the scenery was incredible. We followed a very fast flowing river which bucked and rushed like stampeding horses. I cannot imagine a more perfect place for a talented kayaker to paddle. About a million grades above my pay grade.
There are many tunnels along this route and two of them were very long. The first one about 4 km long had a bit of lighting and wasn’t too bad.
The 2nd one is 7km long and has no lighting and is known as the tunnel of death. Not only no lighting but no ventilation either. This is evident not only by the stench of it but when I tried to put the headlights on full the light diffused into the murk witch rendered them useless. A motorist pulled in behind me and must have seen me hesitate a bit so he overtook me, put his hazard lights on and guided me through, even slowing down for the potholes which I had no chance of seeing. What a star. After emerging from the tunnel my face was black!
The Tajikistan driving standard is about the same as everywhere else in this region. Just be on guard every millisecond.
The road in places was sublime, but I didn't exploit them to their potential as you just never knew when an overtaking car was going to come around the next corner.
An absolutely delightful drive into Dushanbe, the road followed the river and a myriad of guest houses perched on the opposite bank, some were very flash indeed.
We hadn't booked anywhere as we weren't sure we would get this far, but we penciled in a couple. We are in a nice guest house, close to the bike servicing place.
Had a nice meal in a local restaurant and then had a wander through a lovely park, with many families just strolling and people sitting on the park benches just chatting, lovely atmosphere.
Dushanbe is the capital and from what we've seen is clean and modern, looking forward to a bit of an explore once the bike is fixed.
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