Day 48 Chalus - Gorgan

We have our phones working but we cannot access Facebook or our usual sources of news like Stuff or BBC. We can use whats app and Instagram.

We are staying in private apartments. We don’t prebook accommodation, when we get to a town there are men in the side of the road with signs, we approach them and inquire about their apartment, if it sounds suitable they show it to us and the deal is done. Usually basic but functional and more room than a hotel.

I began the day with a swim in the Caspian Sea. It is actually a freshwater lake but it is huge.

Unfortunately to get to the sea I had to cross a band of plastic, I’m not sure if this is Iranian or washed ashore from other countries but I suspect a combination of both. Litter in Iran is terrible and an awful blot on an otherwise beautiful landscape. I cannot imagine how much plastic there must be in that body of water.

We are travelling along a narrow strip of land between the Aborz mountains and the Caspian sea. It is largely built up all the way for 600km. All small shops and apartments, not a particularly interesting part of our journey. Hossein and I are discussing politics, religion and literature. 

Man selling fish on the side of the road. 

We are at our destination for the night, an apartment in the mountain retreat on the outskirts of Gorgan. There has obviously been a few official complaints to officials about the state these apartments are left in after occupancy by Arabs. I will say at this point there is a general dislike of Arabs here. So how do these officials deal with this, they write a rule forbidding any apartment owner from letting an apartment to Arabs. Problem solved. So Hossein now is asked, are your visitors Arab!