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Day 81. Karakol

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Well it seems I was a little premature in announcing my recovery from the sting. Overnight my eye swelled to the point if being closed and the swelling was spreading to the other eye. So off to hospital for me. One injection in the bum for me then intravenous steroid, Dexamethosone, all I know about dex is it is given to climbers with early onset oedema then its down you go. Anyway I am now discharged and the swelling seems to be subsiding. The care was excellent but the facilities basic. I was in a very small room with 2 other people, there is no privacy and little dignity, I felt very sorry for the woman next to me when she had to bare all for probe attachment. I just turned the other way. How things change.......yesterday we were cursing because our China entry was delayed and now we are grateful. It will take me 2-3 days to get over this. Sorry to the regular readers but the next few posts may be a little mundane, at least I hope so. Pic of the day picks itself I thi...

Day 80. Tranchy - Karakol

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We woke up this morning to an email from our China agent informing us the Torugart Pass border will be be closed in the 12th and 13th for Eid festival, open again on the 14th. Agghhhh. We have been booked in for the 12th for months!  So emails back and forth from here to NZ to China to try to get some clarification about where to go from here. Our visa expires on the 16th so we’re cutting it fine......  Damn we have to kill more time until the 14th. In the meantime Pakistan and India are hotting up over Kashmir so keep watching folks all our plans might change in a heartbeat.  Today we set off for Karakol with a planned excursion into a valley we have heard about. A few kms before the turnoff I had a wee visitor inside my helmet and he (or she) gave me a good old sting.  Nothing too dramatic but a few minutes later my whole upper body began to itch I got a rash and welts and I got symptoms of indigestion. An antihistamine and a rest seemed to calm t...

Day 79. Bishkek - Tanchy

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I picked up Robyn’s boots last night. Our fantastic host drove me to the shop where the man was waiting. Phew. This morning we took a few photos outside the hotel with our host family, they are very nice people and are trying really hard to get their fledgling business up and running. So next time you are in Bishkek check out Amaness hotel, we recommend it. So our plan is to circumnavigate lake Issyk Kul over the next few days and then take the road towards the Torugart Pass and China. Large mosque on the way out of Bishkek We set off towards Lake Issyk Kul on very good roads, the traffic was heavy with carloads of holidaymakers heading to the lake also. This road is also the most heavily policed we have encountered and they are well tooled up to catch the unwary.  A slow but very pleasant drive, after a time we wound through a gorge and soon after the lake came into view. In the distance we also spied the Tian Shan mountain range which we will cross in a...

Day 78. Bishkek

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There are many similarities between Almaty and Bishkek. There are obvious ones like the spectacular mountain backdrops, they both are striving to become vibrant modern cities. They are quite tidy and clean with good roads and infrastructure. If you delve a little deeper you see friendly, open people and modern commerce mixed with traditional traders. They have their issues with unemployment but it seems that they are trying. There is not too much by way of tourist attractions to attract the hordes of tourists from the west, but if you like mountains for hiking or climbing or even just to look at them and enjoy the atmosphere you will be spoilt for choice. This morning we had a wander around the Osh market, if you can’t find it here you don’t need it. I found jandals woohoo. We then headed into the centre of town to some lovely parks with many statues of past civic leaders as well as Lenin and Marx of course. Beautifully manicured flower beds and fountains set a nice sc...

Day 77. Almaty - Bishkek

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Set off for Bishkek not really looking forward to the roadworks etc. I’m not sure if we were hallucinating or just having a bad day on the way to Almaty the other day but the road back to Biskek  today (reverse route) was just fine We caught up with Diana and Dick on the road and shared the ride. On the way we stopped for a cold drink. There was a van load of people going to Issyk Kul lake for a weekend break. One of the girls spoke very good English and it was her birthday. Lots of selfies with the bike. Diana gave her a 'kiwi' pin to keep. She was very overwhelmed. Casualty of the day was my jandals, lost overboard, only held on by a bunjee. So that makes 3 caps, 1 tee shirt, 1 pair of togs and now the jandals. I suspect the jandals will be the hardest to replace. Not too many billabong shops in Bishkek.  We got to the border and joined the queue of cars. It looked like there was going to be a bit if a wait so it was decided Robyn and Diana would joi...

Day 76. Zharkent - Almaty

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Our breakfast this morning was delivered to our room on a tray. It has been a lovely place to stay. And what an absolutely delightful morning to follow. Up onto a desert like plateau with herds of horses, camels and cattle. The mountains in the distance made a wonderful backdrop and the air was cool (ish). We just took our time, waving to the locals and taking photographs. Looked at us as if we were an intrusion .... and then up and away he gracefully flew. We stopped in fairly industrial town for refreshments at a little shop directly opposite what was once an old soviet apartment complex, it was all bricked up and even the bricks are now falling out. Why someone hasn't just blown it up is beyond me. The last 160km were back onto a motorway through the flat lands. Lots of crops and haymaking going on. We rode through a little town called Kapchagay which is beside a lovely lake, very popular with holiday makers with nice parks and children...

Day 75. Shonzhy - Zharkent

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Desert day today. Unfortunately our hotel didn't do breakfast and the lovely cafe next door wasn't open, so we set off in search of the Charyn Canyon view point as marked on Maps.me. We found the turn off ok but hesitated when it indicated 24km down a gravel track and there wasn't a sign post to be seen to indicate we were on the right track. So with everything saying don't do it, off we went. Wasn't all that bad but boy was it isolated, nothing but desert and the occasional abandoned building. The lookout when we got there was really nice, the views were stunning. We resisted the temptation to descend the narrow track into the canyon, ( we're not really risk takers- yeah right). So back the 24km on the rough dirt track with only a couple of "I'm sure it was that way" moments. Know how she feels when it all goes south. Back to the main road for cold water and ice cream for breakfast. While we were feasting a...